Author: Eric and Shazza

  • The Up’s And The Down’s Of Living In Spain – Part 2

    From where we had parked the car, half way up a hill on the outskirts of ‘Setinel de las Bodegas’, it was difficult to turn around to simply follow the route out, back in the direction in which we had arrived, so we thought that there would be a place to either turn around further up, in the direction of where the official car park was signposted, or there would, at some point, be a road junction directing us back towards ‘Ronda’, but as it turned out we never did come across the official car park 🤷‍♂️ As we departed the outskirts of the town, just following the main road, we saw, in the distance, and a little further up the mountain, two other villages, or towns, it is at times hard to distinguish between what are villages or towns when you are some distance away, however, the one at the top of the hill certainly had two rather imposing buildings, one of which certainly bore the resemblance of being a Castle. I checked ‘Google Maps’ on my phone and identified the location of the one with the Castle as being the town of ‘Olvera’, so we made the split second decision to head there, we were not in a rush and who knows how long it would be before we came this way again, if ever 🤷‍♂️

    Sometimes, when you are travelling on these mountain roads, you rarely see many other vehicles, or pass through any other villages, there is just miles and miles of road passing through rural land with Olive Groves or Fruit trees, the animals we see are mainly Goats, Sheep or Horses and along the hillsides the occasional clumps of Forest, the winding, well surfaced roads, cut through the mountains granite and limestone jagged peaks which all makes for interesting landscapes, occasionally we meet a herd of grazing goats along the roadside, they seem less interested in us as we do of them and they just continue to graze away. Suddenly, without any advance announcement, we came across a rather decorative ‘Glorietta’ (Roundabout) on the outskirts of a small hamlet. The town of Olvera was signposted off it, so at least we did not have to rely on guesswork as to which direction to take.


    The small white-washed hamlet of ‘Torre Alháquime’

    It looked like just another stereo-typical whitewashed village, looking at the stone monument that decorated the roundabout, it really did look to have the emptiness of a one-donkey hamlet, but it was well tended, the streets were immaculately clean, the houses all looked fairly modern structures, but the streets were deserted, we didn’t see any shops of any description, or the more usual Cafe/Bars, which I have to say, is actually very unusual, there are normally always a multitude of Cafe/Bars, even in the smallest Spanish village 🤔 But as quickly as we had entered the village we then found ourselves exiting the other side, we had passed no other vehicles and saw absolutely no sign of any life, animal or human, they were probably all sat around tables in a back street Cafe/Bar somewhere, warming themselves around a log fire and drinking copious amounts of Anti-Covid Vaccines, I was rather envious of them.

    I had given my camera clicker finger a well deserved rest, there are only so many Olive groves you can photgraph and, after a while, even the rocky peaks begin to look much of a muchness. The large Religious type building, that suddenly appeared as we rounded a bend, caught me a bit off guard as it looked magnificent against the mountain background but I had missed the photo opportunity. In a cloud of dust, a screech of rubber on loose gravel, which was being thrown up from the tyres, Shazza brought our chariot to an emergency stop outside a Cafe/Bar located on the opposite side of the road to the religious looking building. Okay, I confess, I may have exaggerated that last bit a little bit, Shazza actually pulled in to the gravel car park in a more careful and refined manner, no bystanders, had their have been any, would have been sprayed with shards of gravel, however, it was actually a bit of a last minute sort of manoeuvre. We got out of the car and crossed the road on to a nice well surfaced open courtyard sort of area, signage on the door indicated that this was the ‘Sanctuary of Nuestra Senora de Los Remedios’ 🤷‍♂️ The front door was open and there was no admission charge although a sign instructed us that we must maintain silence, once inside the sanctuary, our curiosity was raised sufficiently so we ventured inside to take a peek, it was as quiet as the proverbial church mouse, if their were any occupants, perhaps an order of Nuns committed to a vow of silence, we didn’t see any and, for obvious reasons, neither did we hear anyone. On the lower floor area there was a central patio, full of well tended plants and flowers, with rooms leading off, a prayer room with an Altar, and a side room that contained orange flamed candles that were flickering away on a large table, but like a lot of religious places these days, these candles were not the real wax ones with real yellow flames but artificial, battery operated. We found a set of stairs that led to an upper level, we went up only to discover the doors, that gave access to the internal balcony, were closed, there were some pictures on the wall but to be honest there wasn’t really much else to see so we didn’t spend too long inside before returning to the car to continue our journey.


    The quite ornate internal courtyard affair

    As we neared the outskirts of the town we got a much better view of the Castle, perched right on top of the town and next to it, an equally impressive large structure, there were no obvious signs of what it was, a Church or Cathedral perhaps ? What we did know is that unless we found somewhere to park close to Castle, we would be having another steep walk 😲 Our ‘Google Maps’, which is usually quite good at identifying car parks, didn’t reflect any close to the castle, although there were several in the main town at the foot of the steep hill. Fortunately, once again, as we kept the view of the Castle in our sights, which wasn’t exactly difficult to do, we drove towards it and we found some more roadside parking bays, the majority were occupied but someone must have known that we were coming and had left us a space. There were a few more cars about on the town roads, and we saw several people walking along the pavements, not what you would consider crowds of people, not by a long shot, but at least it didn’t now feel as though we were the last surviving humans on the planet.

    Believe me, the Castle looked closer than it actually was

    I had checked on ‘Google’ to confirm that the Castle was actually open to the public, I didn’t want to climb all the way up to it to then discover we couldn’t have a look around. The big structure we had seen next to it was the ‘Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación’ (Church of Our Lady of the Incarnation) and both the Castle and the Church stood almost side by side, separated only by a large open courtyard and Mirador, which provided a fantastic rooftop view over the city and the surrounding countryside.

    We had walked from the car towards the town but, from ground level it wasn’t immediately obvious which direction we should head in to get to the Castle, so I stopped a couple of ladies who were passing, and in my bestest Spanish I asked “Cual es el Camino al Castillo ?”, (Which way to walk to the Castle ?) it was a good job that I had stopped them to ask as it turned out that we had been heading in the wrong direction. It was not so much a long walk, but my goodness it was bloody steep and we had to stop on a couple of occasions to admire the wonderful views, which was fortunate, as it also gave Shazza an opportunity to catch her breath, and being the loving and considerate husband that I am, I of course could not leave her standing alone in a strange town 😂

    Admiring the view on the way up to the Castle
    Finally we made it to the top, and on this occasion it certainly wasn’t the views that had taken my breath away 🥵

    In addition to the Castle and the Church, there was also a Museum in a separate more modern building, this also housed the Tourist Information Office with of course the mandatory ‘Tourist Tat’ shop, this is where we would pay the Admission Fee to cover a visit to all three attractions and all for the princely sum of €2 each. Apart from the Coffee and Toast, and a couple of small beers, in ‘Sentinel’ (€9), this was turning out to be quite an economic day trip so far 😁

    We started our tour in the Castle, through a small but pretty archway and then came the steps, and more steps, and even more steps, and the one’s that took us right up to the top ‘turret’ were via a very narrow spiral staircase, and we needed to take care when we were coming down them, our calf muscles were feeling the strain again so we took plenty of opportunities to stop and admire the views along the way 🤭

    You know when you get a feeling that someone is watching you ?
    You would certainly have been able to see any potential Invaders before they got anywhere near
    Looking down on to the central Courtyard and Mirador and then over and beyond the Church
    And then over the rooftops of the town that stretched out below us

    Now I have to be honest and say that this is not the best Castle that I have ever visited, in fact, and you don’t hear me say too many good things about the UK these days, but at least they do have some wonderful Castles and Stately Homes, in some of them they even reproduce what the rooms would have looked like in their day with lots of furnishings, Portraits of all the owner’s through the ages, Heraldic flags, pieces of Armour and Weaponry on display, but that of course usually comes at quite a cost with the Admission prices in the UK, and of course they charge for car parking, so my advice would be to invest in Annual subscriptions to organisations such as the ‘National Trust’ or ‘English Heritage’, you will generally recoup the annual subscription after just your first visit to one of the attractions 👍 However, this one I have to say rated ‘pretty good’ on my scale of enjoyment, as it was not just a heap of rubble, like some can be, and it did have different rooms to wander in and out of, with several viewing turrets, so the effort to actually come here was worthwhile.

    After the Castle we went across to the Museum and ‘Tourist Tat’ shop, but only because that was where the ‘Public Conveniences’ were located 🙄 We were all ‘Churched’ out for one day, so we gave that a miss and decided it was time to go back down the hill. “Do you want to go and have a wander around the town now ?” I asked Shazza, “Not really” she replied. Neither of us are actually much in the way of shoppers, unless of course we specifically want to buy something, or the town is noted for having a certain sort of must see charm, Olvera didn’t, it was just really a normal working town, although it would have probably have had some nice ‘Plaza’s’ with Cafe’s and Eateries. “Are you hungry yet ?”, Shazza asked me, “Not really, I am still full after that humongous Tostado this morning” I replied, “Me too” she said. Which was surprising because we had done a fair bit of walking, and up and down a lot of steps and hills so we must have been burning a lot of calories. Now whilst I can go most of the day without food, I always know when Shazza needs sustenance, she goes quiet and moody and then tells me in no uncertain way that she needs to eat. I remember the signs very well from our Motor-homing days, especially when we were on long drives. We were actually all walked out now, it was well into Siesta time here so most of the shops would have been closed anyway, although the Cafe/Bars would have been open, so we agreed that we would make our way back down to the car and down the mountain and, if we did start to feel any hunger pangs, we could always stop somewhere on our way home.

    We would take the same route back, via the small hamlet of ‘Torre Alháquime’, and the towns of ‘Setenil de las Bodegas’ and ‘Ronda’ and, although the landscapes would be the same, but because we were doing the drive in the opposite direction, with the sun now in a different position to when we drove up, the views would be slightly different, so my clicker finger was primed once again.

    Obviously the Hamlet has had a bit of a change since we passed through it a few hours earlier, it has now gone from being a ‘One Donkey Village’ to a ‘One Horse Town’ 😂

    The road back towards ‘Setenil’ was as quiet as it had been when we were driving in the opposite direction, other people must travel along these roads we said to each other, other tourists like us, out exploring the area, even the locals who live here in the small villages or driving between the towns, the folk who live in the ‘Fincas’, even van or truck delivery driver’s, did they use a different route that our Sat Nav didn’t know about ? In the UK, roads like these would be at least busy with tractors and trailers, but nothing, absolutely nothing, it was quite tranquil but I have to say that it did feel a little strange too.

    Agricultural land all around us, farm houses and buildings, freshly ploughed fields, vegetable plots, Olive Groves, but no vehicles and no signs of life

    We drove down the main road and through ‘Sentinel’, at least here there was evidence of plenty of traffic and civilisation. You know when sometimes you are told that some things in life are all about ‘timing’, well the perfect example of our good timing was as we passed back through the main town area, two tourist coaches had quite literally just dropped off their cargo of ‘turistas’, there must have been close to a hundred people and they were all making their way into the narrow ‘Tourist Tat’ street, in the direction of the under cliff retail units. Now of course the retailer’s would be very appreciative of this sudden influx of trade, we however were glad that we had made our visit much earlier that morning. It wasn’t long and we were back on the main switchback roads that would take us around Ronda, down the mountain and back towards home.

    The late afternoon sunshine had created a misty heat haze down along the coastline, so although it was not as clear as it had been earlier that morning, the view of both Gibraltar and the coastline of Africa were still visible
    We knew we were nearing the home run as we re-entered the lush green forested areas, and the traffic became busier

    We had both finally started to feel hungry as we neared the final part of our journey, so our discussions naturally turned to what we fancied to eat. We would be back in our own town area by 4:30pm, so we could have driven to our usual village car park and walked the short distance into the Marina, there would be plenty of choice of eateries in there. As it was, great minds think alike, now there is not much that we miss about the UK but we both really fancied Fish & Chips, Curry Sauce and a slice of bread and butter, to make a ‘chip butty’ of course, as you do. We knew that there was a very good English managed Fish & Chip restaurant at the bottom of our hill, near our favourite Indian restaurant, but we hadn’t used it now for well over a year, but when we had, it had always been very good. So that was it we had decided on what, and where, we would eat. That was until I checked the opening times and discovered that it didn’t actually open until 5:30pm, did we really want to have to go home first and then have to go back out again 🤔 You know what it is like after being out all day, you come back tired and just want to take off your shoes, sit down and relax with a nice hot cuppa, and once settled we knew that getting motivated to go back out again would be a real struggle. So we considered our options, however, our taste buds had already been stimulated, and salivating at the prospect of the taste of hot freshly cooked Battered Cod, with proper Chips, lashings of Salt ‘n’ Vinegar and a chip butty, we could even already visualise it on a plate in front of us.

    Well I can tell you, it was a struggle, but that is exactly what we did, we went home, took of our trainers, sat on the balcony with our piping hot mugs of tea and waited for the hour to pass, then we went down the hill to the Fish & Chip restaurant, sat down, ordered and enjoyed every mouthful, it tasted so damn good, the perfect ending to what had been a very enjoyable day trip up in our local mountains.

    We both agreed that, if these sort of days were an example of the sort of ‘The Up’s And Down’s Of Living In Spain’ that we will have to put up with over the next few year’s, then I think that we just might be able to cope with this lifestyle 😉 The only question though, “Where should we go next ?

    Until my next ramble,

    Hasta Luego mi Amigos

  • The Up’s And The Down’s Of Living In Spain – Part 1

    The last time we ventured into the mountains that surround our location was in March last year, I remember it well, as we had taken some family visitor’s staying with us, up to the beautiful hilltop town of Ronda which is located 739 metres up, in the Serrania de Ronda mountain range. Upon our return, that same evening, I started to suffer difficulties with the sight in my right eye and, by the following morning, I had lost my sight completely in my right eye. Shazza rushed me to the Costa del Hospital, some forty minutes drive away, where it was discovered that I had actually suffered a detached retina. Now obviously the visit to Ronda and my detached retina were possibly just coincidental, although we later discovered, from the eye Consultant, that actually high altitudes can be associated to such eye conditions. However, it is worth pointing out that I have, since that incident, flown in an aircraft at a much higher altitude and without any issues, hence my belief that it was a purely coincidental occurrence.

    I only mention that because our next ‘Shazza Adventure’ would take us up the same mountain range although, on this occasion, a little further up beyond Ronda and so it did bring memories back of that unfortunate incident, I guess it was something that had been in the back of both our minds but neither of us mentioned it out aloud. We had decided to visit the small town of ‘Setinel de las Bodegas’ across the border into our neighboring Province of Cadiz. The town has a population of around 3,000 people, although that number substantially increases with the hoards of visiting tourists during the Summer months.

    Now for those, unlike me, that are actually interested in the ‘History’ of places such as this, then the Internet of course provides a wealth of information and, although Shazza and myself are self-confessed ‘History Heathens’, occasionally I do enlist some help, to add ‘stuff’ to my ramble content, more usually acquired from my two friends ‘Mr Google’ and ‘Mr Wikapedia’, however, on this occasion I discovered a very informative ‘Plaque’ in the town itself that gave a very brief resume, in much fewer words than I ever could, so I am sure you my reader’s will be applauding that.

    Shazza had discovered this place several weeks ago whilst perusing one of her many Spanish sightseeing and walking books, but it wasn’t for the hiking that she wanted to visit. We have often driven past other towns and villages that have ‘Cave Houses’, but they have been merely fleeting glimpses as we sped by en route to somewhere else. But this particular small Whitewashed village was a little unique in that, as well as cave houses it also had shops built directly under overhanging cliff tops and, from the photographs it looked like it would make a decent day trip out. The only unknown factor with these sort of high altitude locations is the weather, during the Summer months the temperatures in these mountain villages and towns can be a lot hotter than those at sea level, but in the Autumn/Winter months, well they are certainly a lot cooler but, if it is a grey and cloudy day, visibility can be down to just a few feet. Fortunately the ‘Works of Fiction’ forecasted a bright and sunny day, but, would they get it right, that was the question in our minds as we know only too well the inaccuracy of their weather predictions.

    We had a choice of three routes, all would provide excellent scenic views as we drove up the mountain, and we had driven all three on previous road trips but this time we elected to take the shortest, as it was only 60 miles and would take us 90 minutes to get there, the much easier route, driving wise, would have taken us on a much better dual carriageway road for a large bulk of the journey, but it would entail driving an additional 30 miles, and add on an extra thirty-minutes driving time. Now I was more than happy to do all the driving and was actually quite looking forward to both the outward and return route driving, up and down all the steep twisty switchback roads, however, Shazza can sometimes feel car sick on such mountainous routes when she is a passenger, so I suggested that we share the driving and that she could do either the outward or return part of the journey. However, this is where you my reader’s will see the relevance of the first part of the storyline in this ramble, because Shazza had other ideas, only then did she reveal to me that she was concerned about last years eye incident and ‘suggested’ that she would prefer to do all the driving, with the proviso that if I felt any kind of discomfort, or blurred vision, during the ascent, that I should tell her immediately and we would not then continue with the mountain trip. Now I of course argued my case by reminding her that we had actually flown at over 9,000 metres in an aircraft since then, but you know what these women can be like, once they get a bee in their bonnet about something then that is it, so, although I really enjoy doing the driving, it really was no ‘biggy’ for me, I had no problems with being chauffeur driven all day, and you lucky people, my readers, have also got the advantage of now having a passenger who has a very enthusiastic ‘Clicker Finger’ 🤗

    The Arrow marks the location of our destination, thirty-minutes drive further North than Ronda

    We departed at 09:15am, it was 16 degrees(c), so even slightly cooler for us than we have been used to at this time of the morning, but we also knew that it would be a lot cooler up in the mountains, so we dressed appropriately, no tee-shirts, shorts or flip-flops today, it was jeans, long sleeved shirts and trainers, and we both had thicker woollen zipped tops to put on once we arrived, however, as we looked up at the mountains as we got into the car, all the surrounding mountains peaks were totally clear of any low lingering cloud and their was a nice clean looking blue sheet of sky above them. There would be no need for a picnic lunch either, as we had not intended to do any hiking, so a ‘Tapas’ lunch, or even a ‘Menu del Dia’, would be the order of the day, in one of the numerous local hostelries and, as I had now been ‘officially’ relegated to being ‘a passenger’, well sometimes their is a silver lining in every cloud, I would be able to partake of an Anti-Covid Vaccine, or perhaps two. Hmmmm, I might just get used to this being chauffeured around M’larky, a thought that I obviously did not share with my driver 😁

    I had forgotten at just how stunningly beautiful the differing mountain landscapes were at much closer quarters than we normally view them, with totally awesome and stunning views for miles around, first we wound our way up through the lower foothills, through larger populated villages with some very expensive looking residences, some with their own individual private gated entrances, how the other half live we commented but then smiled as we realised that we too have a private gated security entrance, just one we have to share with a lot more people. The surrounding landscape was primarily lush green pine forested slopes, with the odd broad leaf tree’s set amongst them showing off their own Autumnal attire of Golden Brown leaves, glowing in the sunshine and just adding to the magnificent portrait scenery. These sort of drives were definitely not all about just getting to the destination, it was the visual feast for the eyes during the whole of the journey, it really did make me appreciate having sight in both of my eyes so that I can continue to enjoy such views, I really do owe the Spanish eye surgeon, and the other medical staffs at the Costa del Sol hospital, both pre and post-op, a massive debt of gratitude for their prompt intervention which enabled me to keep my eyesight, any delay in having the surgery could have meant losing my sight permanently.

    The traffic on the well surfaced and maintained mountain roads was fairly light, but as we drove further up the mountain, a group of around eight motorcyclists came racing past us, on the wrong side of the road and on very tight sharp right hand bends, which they most certainly could not have seen around, so just took the risk of their being nothing else coming in the opposite direction 😲 Being in a right-hand drive car and, driving on the right hand side of the road, even Lewis Hamilton (aka Shazza) was happy to just stick to the speed limit, or below, on this occasion, but having a car that had Automatic Transmission certainly proved beneficial on these roads, it was really hard work doing such drives previously, when we had ‘Wuxly’ (Shazza’s little car) with it’s manual gears and underpowered little engine, although it had always got us to where we were going, even if at times we could have walked faster up the hills 😂

    As we drove ever upwards, one minute we would be in full sunshine, the next in the shade, as we went from being on the sunny side of the mountain one minute and then the ‘dark side’ the next. We watched as the temperature gauge dropped to 8 degrees(c), we turned on the car heater as we could most certainly feel the drop in the temperature. As we climbed higher we left the more densely forested area and out into the more rural areas, where the views became even better, at one point we could see right out to sea with Gibraltar and Africa so clear, but the ever twisting roads prevented me from getting a decent photo, hopefully I would be better prepared and get one on the downward ascent.

    Amongst the green and granite backdrops, little whitewashed villages and farm houses came into view, it would not be long and they would spend many days shrouded in low cloud or even snow, at least they had plenty of surrounding woodland to provide fuel for their log burners, but even now, in the Wintery sunshine, we could see smoke emanating from some of the chimney stacks
    A small rural ‘Finca’ (farmhouse) with sheep grazing within the fenced boundary, no evidence of any human presence though
    This isolated, but luxurious looking house, set within acres of Olive groves that seemed to stretch for mile upon mile and as far as the eye could see
    Finally, ‘Ronda’ stretched out in front of us, but on this trip we would not be stopping there, instead driving beyond it, further North

    It was 10:45am when we reached the outskirts of the town of ‘Sentenil de las Bodegas’, and quite fortunately, as we both needed somewhere to go and powder our noses, and have a coffee, we came across a Cafe come Restaurant with a large car park, so we pulled in. My goodness, did we feel the chill as we opened the car doors and so we quickly put on our warmer woollen tops. The heat from the open log fire greeted us as we entered, several tables were already occupied and the people sat around them stopped talking as we entered, they said ‘Buena’s Dias’, as is normal here in Spain, and then they just continued with their conversations. We sat at a table and then a young woman came across and I ordered ‘Dos Cafe Con Leche’, as she left, Shazza looked at me and asked inquisitively “No Tostada ?” 🤷‍♂️ So I went up to the bar counter, where the girl was preparing our coffee’s, she turned around, “Lo Siento, tambien Una Tostada con Tomate y Una Tostada con Mermelede por favor” I said, “Vale, no hay problema” she responded. Now we are more normally used to Tostado’s being small baguette type rolls, cut in half and toasted, or sometimes they are large round bread rolls, but here, and you are going to think that I am exaggerating this, but I am not, what came out was a massive slice of bread, as if it had been cut from the centre of an almighty giant loaf, it was ‘at least’ an inch thick, what in some areas of the UK are referred to as ‘Dorrsteps’, and it was well toasted, just how we like it. Then came a large round plate which contained a ‘tub’ of margarine, the sort you would have in your fridge at home, with small individual tubs of different processed meats of some description, a tub of liquidised tomato, bottle of olive oil, individual packets of Salt and of course individual tubs of strawberry jam, we only wanted the tomato and jam 🤷‍♂️ So of course, the question in my mind was wether we would be charged for ‘all’ of this plateful of different foodstuffs ? We finished our coffee and toast and I went to the bar counter and asked for “La Cuenta” (The Bill) and the young girl said, “Seis” (Six), she had no way of knowing what we had or hadn’t eaten off the plate, but it was exactly the same price as we we pay at our local Spanish Cafe, although down there we do not get a selection of all the extra’s that we did here. I thanked her and said “Adios” and we made our way back out, as we did so the other people in the Cafe, who were the same people that were in when we had arrived, looked up and said “Luego”, (see you again), so we responded accordingly. We were total stranger’s in this place but felt so welcome by people we did not know, and would probably never see again.

    We drove into the town and through it’s twisting roads looking for a suitable parking spot, we followed the ‘P’ signs up a hill that climbed away from the main part of the town, but fortunately, half way up we saw several marked parking bays at the side of the road and were lucky enough to find an empty one. It was a beautifully sunny and virtually cloudless day, the odd cotton wool ball one floating by, but there was certainly a chill in the air and certainly needed our zip up woollen tops.

    The view over the wall from where we had parked the car
    The footbridge across what would have usually been the river that flows through the centre of this small town, but even up here the effects of the long drought period were clearly evident
    There were a few people milling around but it wasn’t busy, we commenced our explorations
    This is a view of one side of the riverside under cliff shops, but, as we very quickly discovered, this was one of those ‘Tourist Trap’ locations and to be honest, we found it to be a little tacky
    Just to prove that I was actually there 😁

    Now I have to confess that at this stage of our visit, whilst it was nice to see the geology of the place and how they had turned, what used to be old historical residential dwellings, which in the day were most commonly used to house both humans ‘and’ their animals under the same roof, into what is now more modern residences and retail outlets, but to be completely honest this part of the town was predominantly targeted at prizing money from tourists wallets and purses, it certainly was not somewhere that the locals would come to do their daily or weekly shopping, they would use the small supermarket which we saw signposted in the back streets of the ‘normal’ residential habitations or, alternatively, and very much more likely, the more permanent residents would drive, or catch the local bus, the half an hour or so journey to the much larger town of Ronda where all the main everyday essential facilities were located.

    So it was just another one of those places that sold the same old type of ‘Tourist Tat’, at the same inflated prices, that you could purchase anywhere, but with this towns name and pictures, printed on to the fridge magnets, tee-shirts, spanish fans, tablecloths and tea-towels, ceramic mugs and plates, well you get the idea by now. We were also quite pleased that we had eaten earlier and were still quite full from our ‘doorstep’ proportioned Tostado, rather than having to pay the extortionate prices they were asking at most of the tourist Bar/Cafes and Restaurants in this part of the town. But yes, scenically it was very nice, but the question is, was it worth the drive here, ninety-minutes up the mountain ? Well you may be surprised but actually, yes it was, but only due to what we were about to discover…………………

    So, after doing the touristy bit and, as is our way, we decided to just wander aimlessly and explore in and out the numerous narrow alleyways just following our noses, now sometimes that can lead us to nothing of any real interest and be a bit of a waste of shoe leather, or in today’s case, rubber soled trainers, but sometimes our fortitude is rewarded, as proved to be very much the case as we discovered some lovely paths and walkways, and as a consequence we were able to see the ‘real’, more interesting side, of this unique town. As to be expected though in these mountain towns and villages, there were lots of steps to climb and descend, but it was all well worth the effort.

    From the alleyways we could actually see how this town had been carved into the mountain, through it, into it and most definitely on top of it, now this is more of what we had expected to come and see
    Of course we discovered lots of steps, which had to be investigated
    Often, the steps led us to Miradors’ located at different points around the town giving us different views. As for the Church on the opposite side of the hill, well we will get to that a bit later, but first …………
    I guess this rooftop view of the town could be classed as giving us a view overlooking the ‘middle’ section. The river, and cave houses were on the lower section and we could see from our current vantage point that we were not quite at the top level.
    Some houses had small but nice balconies, providing some outside space
    Other’s though had larger balconies
    We could also see some other cave houses below us, so we needed to go and take a closer look
    That was handy, this set of steps took us down from the opposite end of the Mirador, down and along a riverside walkway (although no water in the river) towards the cave houses we had seen from above
    Shazza wasn’t hanging about !!
    This is the point where I realised that it wasn’t just a ‘Walkway’, but part of the Tourist Tuk-Tuk Route. Was that woman waving or telling me she didn’t want to appear in one of my photo’s 🤷‍♂️ Oooops, too late !! 😂
    Spoilt for choice of routes to follow 🤷‍♂️

    We couldn’t actually gain access to any of the cave houses, many were inhabited, or in the process of being renovated, and quite a few had ‘En Aquilar’ (To Rent) signs attached to them. I guess they would have made nice quirky accommodations for Summer holiday escapes, especially if you enjoy hiking in the mountains more than lazing on crowded beaches.

    Nice newly renovated cave house with a nice bit of outside space, a few nice plant pots to finish it off perhaps. It is difficult to know just how far back it went into the actual rock 🤔
    Did I mention that steps were a frequent occurrence 🥵
    And there were lots of Archways that sometimes led into picturesque squares or another street, it was a bit like being in a game of snakes and ladders, different things to see on different levels and sometimes you had to go down, to go back up again.
    We discovered yet another area on an upper level of the town, this one had several Bar/Cafe’s with very scenic outlooks. It wasn’t just the lower levels of the town that were built directly underneath the overhanging cliff’s
    Our calf muscles were beginning to ache but someone had taken the trouble to decorate these particular steps, so we decided that it would have been rude not to climb and investigate what was around the corner at the top, we were glad that we did…………

    It was beginning to be one of those places where you just could not afford to miss out exploring every nook and cranny, to wander down alleyways and through arches, to climb or descend different steps, there was always something that made the effort so worthwhile. At the top of the florally decorated steps was a narrow cobbled road which led to yet another square and Mirador, with more amazing views and some more of the Olive Groves in the surrounding countryside. However, also within this were two separate Churches.

    There was no access into this particular Church, the pedestrian doors were locked.
    However, the other less obvious Church like building, in the same square, did have an open door, and so we went inside to take a peek at what lay within

    Shazza is not much into Castles, but I am, but she will always come in and explore them with me, conversely, I feel the same about Churches, so will always go inside with her to have a look around. I generally find that Churches, throughout the ages, were overly self-indulgent, adorned with ‘Gold’ antiquities when, the vast majority of their congregations were living in poverty. However, I was to be very pleasantly contradicted on entering this particular religious interior.

    Shazza was already sat on one of the front pews, I left her to enjoy her moment of solitude whilst I stood and took in the very light, but minimalistic furnished interior, there was the usual Altar array but none of the usual ‘in your face’ large gold adorned statuettes or gold framed giant religious portraits. This Church actually felt very peaceful, how a church should feel, in my humble personal opinion.
    We wandered along a quiet, narrow shaded alleyway, and through yet another archway

    We found ourselves back into the nice upper level square, the one with the nice Cafe/Bar’s and other eateries and we stopped for a much deserved cold beer. Our original plan, when we had first set out that morning, was to do our sightseeing and then stop for lunch in the town prior to returning back down the mountain. We had certainly not anticipated the size of the Tostado that we had devoured for our late breakfast upon our arrival, so we both agreed that as we did not feel hungry we decided that we would probably just make our way back home and, if we happened to see somewhere on our way back down the mountain, then we could always stop, we were in no rush.

    However, when we got back to the car, instead of making our way back ‘down’ the mountain we elected, for reasons that will become clear, to drive further up it 🤷‍♂️ I guess that you could say that these are the sort of adventures that we consider as being just ‘The Up’s And Down’s Of Living In Spain’ 😂

    To be continued………………………….

    Hasta Pronto mi Amigos 😉

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